{"id":1676,"date":"2014-10-01T18:02:11","date_gmt":"2014-10-01T17:02:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.carlottastermaria.fr\/blog\/?p=1676"},"modified":"2018-05-26T21:55:11","modified_gmt":"2018-05-26T19:55:11","slug":"pretty-fifties","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/carlotta.land\/index.php\/2014\/10\/01\/pretty-fifties\/","title":{"rendered":"Pretty fifties"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"galliera-annes-50-affiche\"<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n

I’ve been quite angry at\u00a0Galliera Museum (sorry, Palace) lately. Its last\u00a0exhibitions, Paris Haute Couture and Ala\u00efa, albeit beautiful, were also\u00a0rather\u00a0badly explained. And the very last one, Papier glac\u00e9 was just plain advertising for Cond\u00e9 Nast (nice to look at, but I’d rather not pay for that). I felt really disappointed by the museum and it director, Olivier Saillard, who had given me some\u00a0of my very favorite fashion exhibitions. Luckily, I went back to the palace to have a look at the latest exhibition, Les ann\u00e9es cinquante<\/a> (the fifties), and I feel much better now.<\/p>\n

\"Rene-gurau-manteau-dior-1955\"<\/a>Well, that’s a fact: the French fashion renewal, with Dior as its leader, and Fath, Dess\u00e8s, Paquin, Patou, Carven and (my personal favorite) Gr\u00e8s as his brilliant clique, really produced wonders of sophistication:\u00a0dresses, suits and coats that, truly, are museum pieces. What’s also a fact : this era when cocktail dresses were not to be confused with evening dresses, nor morning suits with afternoon dresses, when complicated contruction garments were considered mandatory, when Elle magazine was selling the premices of mass consumption, was not exactly what I’d consider woman-friendly.<\/p>\n

\"rene-gruau-tailleur-bar\"<\/a>But like anybody, I enjoy beautiful things : intrigued by Suzy Menkes’ piece<\/a> (and, frankly, a bit cooled by the architectural padding of Dior’s bar suit), I came mostly to see the more relaxed part of the exhibition : after the beautiful suits and coats came the beach dresses\u00a0and\u00a0junior ensembles, like a preview of the sportswear and ready-to-wear looks that would bloom in the next decade, and, most particularly, of this stylish period, at the junction\u00a0between the fifties and the sixties that I have a soft spot for\u00a0(more about this obsession here<\/a>, here<\/a> and there<\/a>). I was not disappointed : I especially liked a lovely painted summer dress (Herm\u00e8s) and a intricate but oh-so relaxed beach dress by Gr\u00e8s.<\/p>\n

\"Rene-Gruau-manteau-rouge-1950\"<\/a>But to me, the best of the exhibition was not pinned on a dress form but humbly hanging on the walls : sewing patterns from Le petit \u00e9cho de la mode! Thank you, dear Galliera palace, for taking those humble sewing patterns, merely addressed to middle classes, within your walls. Your million-dollar dresses are beautiful indeed, but to\u00a0truly mark its time, a style must live… and before ready-to-wear was adopted en masse,\u00a0this meant home sewing (by the way, they’d make killer merchandising, wouldn’t they?).<\/p>\n

Were you lucky enough to be\u00a0in Paris, Les ann\u00e9es cinquante<\/em> runs till November 2nd.\u00a0Otherwise, sneaky pics can be found on my Instagram<\/a> and through the museums’s location.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I’ve been quite angry at\u00a0Galliera Museum (sorry, Palace) lately. Its last\u00a0exhibitions, Paris Haute Couture and Ala\u00efa, albeit beautiful, were also\u00a0rather\u00a0badly explained. And the very last one, Papier glac\u00e9 was just plain advertising for Cond\u00e9 Nast (nice to look at, but I’d rather not pay for that). I felt really disappointed by the museum and itContinue reading “Pretty fifties”<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[5],"tags":[100,116,129,140,270,328],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/carlotta.land\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1676"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/carlotta.land\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/carlotta.land\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/carlotta.land\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/carlotta.land\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1676"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/carlotta.land\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1676\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2240,"href":"https:\/\/carlotta.land\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1676\/revisions\/2240"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/carlotta.land\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1676"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/carlotta.land\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1676"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/carlotta.land\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1676"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}